Tuesday, June 26, 2012

Argentina

I am in the last week of my time here in Argentina. It has been a wonderfully terrifying experience. I have been pushed to use what little spanish I know by our driver, Omar, who takes us to work each day (the area the plant is in is not safe). I have wondered around a gorgeous city. I have heard why the Argentinians love Tango, believe that Las Malvinas (or the Falklands as we know it) are rightfully Argentina's, and why the government is hurting the economy.

I have traveled many places. Spent 4 weeks in Europe, been to the west coast multiple times, and spent a week in China. I have truly never felt like I understood another culture as much as I do Argentina while at the same time understanding that in no way have I fully grasped the country and it's people.

There is an amazing sense of pride in the country. These people love the land between their borders just as fiercely as an American loves our own country. Flags hang everywhere. Even more so than in America. At least a fourth of the Apartments in Buenos Aires hang the flag from their balcony. This pride in the country is reflected in their devotiom to the National Soccer team. I wish there was a comparison to be made between the devotion that goes into them watching football and the devotion that american's support of a sport. The closest I can compare is the dedicated to an American Football team or Baseball team, but even this compares pales because this is not an entire country is rooting for one team. We have that every four years in the Olympics but outside of those brief months every four years, our largest support of a team is City against City. It's amazing to be in a city that is almost entirely quiet as most of it's residents are watching or listening to Messi run the ball down the field in a "Friendly" match against Brazil. Hearing the roar of support when he scores a goal, knowing that the dull roar from inside Locos por Futbol (literally Crazy for Soccer, the best soccer bar in Argentina) joins other cheers from all different corners of the country.


Messi

This pride does not extend to the government. The government here is still trying to pull itself out of the economic slump and the people are angry and frustrated at the attempts because it is worsening the problem. The inflation is currently officially at 8% but the reality is much worse at 20 -30%. The raises given to our employees in argentina are around 25% because of inflation. In addition this is considered to be inadequate and frequently our employees leave to go to a company that can provide yearly raises in line with inflation. The unofficial rules around the trading of the currency make it impossible for companies to do business and as a result are leaving Argentina.

The one thing that the people wholly support the government is the sovereignty around Las Malvinas. Las Malvinas are a strategically placed set of islands (archipelagio?) near the southern tip of the country rich with natural resources as well as easy access to South America. The Argeninians believe 100% that Las Malvinas should be Argentinian (and to suggest otherwise is an insult). Signs are hung up all over the place.


Translated: The Malvinas are Argentinian

A little history: Las Malvinas were accessible to the native inhabitants of Argentina but were never inhabited by them. Since it's discovery by Europe there has been differing claims between the English, Spanish, and Portuguese as to who discovered it first. The islands have changed sovereignty over many years and the debate over who has sovereignty is still debated between the English and the Argentinians. I won't go deeper into the history as it is very convoluted but essentially the English Claim that Las Malvinas has always been a territory of England and is protected as such and Argentina claims that when it declared it's independence from Spain they included Las Malvinas in this claim and therefore, when actually frred from Spain's rule (and since at the time spain had occupation of the islands), Las Malvinas rightly belong to Argentina. (They invaded Las Malvinas in 1986 to try and assert this claim. America sided with the British and the British army ousted the Argentinians 2 months after the invasion)

Now The inhabitants of Las Malvinas have their own functioning government and that government, after a vote from the people, declared it's right to choose which country to which they will pay sovereignty (as the Island can not function by itself) and have decided to remain British Citizens. I mentioned that if this is what they want, then that is what they should have. I got a lecture that concluded with:

Jess: But WHY does Argentina want Las Malvinas?
Argentinian: Because it's ours

Makes noooo sense to me but that is the beauty of being here. I get to see how another culture thinks and reacts to the world. Like how when someone compliments us in America we become self deprecating but in Argentina they say "I know". The amazing way they make beef. The astounding and death defying way they drive (I swear there are no traffic laws).

I will be sad to leave behind a culture that I am learning to love and appreciate but oh boy will it be nice to be back in a place where I can understand people on the street when they talk to me.

PS Evita isn't nearly as big of a deal as Americans think.

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